Suits
Single-breasted vs double-breasted suits: a simple guide
By sneakersInn team · Updated
A single-breasted suit has one column of buttons and a narrow overlap at the front; a double-breasted suit has two columns of buttons and a wide overlap. Choose single-breasted for your first suits because it suits every occasion and can be worn open. Choose double-breasted when you want a bolder, more formal look and are happy to keep it buttoned.
| Single-breasted | Double-breasted | |
|---|---|---|
| Buttons | One column of one to three | Two columns, usually six with two or three to fasten |
| Lapels | Usually notch | Usually peak |
| Formality | Everything from casual to formal | Formal and dressy |
| Wear open? | Yes | No, it should stay buttoned |
| Heat | Cooler, can be opened | Warmer, more fabric across the chest |
| Best body types | All | Taller and slimmer men wear it most easily |
What is a single-breasted suit?
The most common suit in the world. The jacket closes with one column of buttons. A two-button jacket with notch lapels (the lapel has a small notch where it meets the collar) is the classic style and works for interviews, weddings, the office and weekends.
How do I button a single-breasted jacket?
Follow the "sometimes, always, never" rule from top to bottom:
- Two buttons: fasten the top, never the bottom.
- Three buttons: sometimes the top, always the middle, never the bottom.
- One button: fasten it when standing.
Unbutton when you sit, so the jacket doesn't pull.
What is a double-breasted suit?
A jacket with two columns of buttons and front panels that overlap widely. It usually has peak lapels (the points of the lapel rise towards the shoulders). Common layouts are described as "six on two" (six buttons, two to fasten) or "six on one".
How do I wear double-breasted?
Keep it buttoned when standing, including the inside button (the "anchor" button) that holds the inner panel in place. Leave the bottom outer button open on most styles. Because it stays closed, it should fit closely enough that it doesn't bunch at the waist.
Which suits Accra's heat?
Single-breasted, because you can open it. Double-breasted puts two layers of fabric across your chest and must stay buttoned. If you want double-breasted, choose linen or a light wool. See linen suits.
Which is better for my build?
Single-breasted suits every build. Double-breasted adds width across the chest, which flatters tall, slim men and can make shorter or broader men look boxy unless it is cut well. See dressing for your body type.
Can the jacket be worn on its own?
Single-breasted jackets in navy or grey work as blazers. Double-breasted jackets are harder to separate but look sharp over a fine knit and tailored trousers. See one suit, five looks.
Questions
Which should my first suit be?
Single-breasted, two-button, notch lapels, in navy. See navy vs charcoal.
Is double-breasted too formal for a wedding?
No. It is a good choice for evening and formal weddings, as long as it fits well.
Can I add a waistcoat to a double-breasted suit?
Not usually. A waistcoat is for single-breasted suits; see two-piece vs three-piece suits.