Suits
Suit fabrics explained: wool, linen, cotton and blends
By sneakersInn team · Updated
Lightweight wool is the best all-round suit fabric, even in Accra: it breathes, resists creases and lasts for years. Linen is the coolest but creases most. Cotton is casual and holds a crisp line. Polyester blends are cheaper and tough but trap heat. Choose by how often you'll wear the suit and where.
| Fabric | Breathes | Creases | Lasts | Formality | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lightweight wool | Well | Little, recovers overnight | Years | Formal to smart | Your main suit |
| Linen | Best | A lot | Years with care | Relaxed | Daytime and outdoor events |
| Cotton | Well | Medium | Medium | Relaxed to smart | Casual suits, separates |
| Wool and linen blend | Very well | Medium | Years | Smart to relaxed | Hot-weather events |
| Wool and polyester blend | Less | Little | Medium | Formal | Budget suits, travel |
| Mostly polyester | Poorly | Little | Shines with wear | Formal look only | Short-term use |
Why is wool good in the heat?
Wool fibres absorb moisture vapour and release it, and a light, open weave lets air pass. That keeps you drier than synthetic fabrics, which hold sweat against the skin. The key is weight and weave, not just "wool".
What fabric weight should I choose?
Suit cloth is described by its weight per metre. For Accra, choose lighter cloth:
- Light (about 230 to 260 g per metre): best for hot climates.
- Mid (about 260 to 320 g): all-year in cooler countries; warm in Accra.
- Heavy (over 320 g): for cold climates only.
Ask the shop or tailor for the cloth weight; good ones will know.
Which weaves are coolest?
- Fresco: a tightly twisted, open plain weave that lets air through and resists creases. Ideal for hot climates.
- Tropical wool: a lightweight plain weave made for heat.
- Twill: a diagonal weave, smoother and warmer; the standard for many suits.
- Hopsack: a basket weave, airy and textured.
What does "Super 100s" mean?
It describes how fine the wool fibre is. Under the industry's labelling code, Super 100s cloth must be made from wool fibres averaging no more than 18.75 microns across; higher numbers mean finer fibres (S number on Wikipedia). Finer is softer and lighter but less durable. For a suit you wear every week, Super 100s to 120s is a good balance. Very high numbers (150s and above) are delicate.
When should I choose linen?
For daytime weddings, outdoor events and holidays, when staying cool matters more than looking crisp. See linen suits.
When should I choose cotton?
For relaxed suits you'll wear as separates: the jacket with jeans, the trousers with a polo. Cotton suits are easy to care for and have a casual, matte look.
Are polyester blends bad?
A small share of polyester in a wool suit adds strength and crease resistance and lowers the price. A suit that is mostly polyester traps heat, shines with wear and doesn't breathe, which is uncomfortable in Accra. Read the label: look for wool as the main fibre.
How do I check a fabric in the shop?
- Read the label for fibre content.
- Scrunch the fabric in your hand for five seconds. Good wool springs back; poor fabric keeps creases.
- Hold it to the light. An open weave lets light through; it will be cooler.
- Feel the lining. A full polyester lining adds heat; half-lined or unlined jackets are cooler.
Questions
Which fabric is best for a first suit?
Lightweight wool, navy, in a plain weave. See navy vs charcoal.
Which fabric lasts longest?
Wool, especially in a medium Super number and a tight weave, with good care. See how to care for a suit.