Pocket squares: how to fold and wear them

A white linen pocket square folded flat, showing a thin straight line above the breast pocket, suits every suit and every occasion. Once you own that, add a patterned silk square for weddings and parties, and learn three folds: the flat fold for formal events, the one-point fold for smart ones, and the puff for relaxed ones.

How do I do a flat fold?

1. Lay the square flat and fold it in half from left to right.
2. Fold it in half again, bottom to top.
3. Fold the sides in so the width matches your pocket.
4. Place it in the pocket so about 1 cm shows in a straight line.

How do I do a one-point fold?

1. Lay the square flat like a diamond.
2. Fold the bottom point up to just below the top point.
3. Fold the left and right sides in to match the pocket width.
4. Fold the bottom up and tuck it into the pocket with the point showing.

How do I do a puff fold?

1. Hold the square at its centre and let it hang.
2. Gather it loosely with your other hand.
3. Fold the bottom up and tuck it in so the rounded top shows.

How do I match a pocket square?

Don't match your tie exactly. Pick up a colour from your tie or shirt, or go plain white. White always works.

Which fabric should I choose?

Linen and cotton hold crisp folds and suit flat and one-point folds. Silk has sheen and suits the puff. Avoid squares sold as a matching set with a tie; they look too uniform.

When should I not wear one?

With very casual jackets like denim and bombers, and when you want the simplest look possible. At funerals, a plain white flat fold or none.

Questions

Can I wear a pocket square without a tie?

Yes. It finishes an open-collar suit look. See one suit, five looks.

Can I use a print fabric?

A small square in African print adds colour and personality to a navy suit at weddings. See Friday wear.

What about ties?

See ties explained.