Shirts, trousers and basics
The perfect white shirt: what to look for
By sneakersInn team · Updated
The perfect white shirt is made from opaque, tightly woven cotton, has a collar that holds its shape with or without a tie, fits at the shoulders, chest and wrists, and has a long enough hem to stay tucked. It's the one shirt that works with every suit, every event and jeans, so it's worth choosing carefully.
| Check | What good looks like |
|---|---|
| Fabric | 100% cotton, opaque, smooth or fine texture |
| Collar | Holds its shape, points sit under a jacket lapel |
| Shoulders | Seam on the edge of your shoulder |
| Chest | No pulling between buttons |
| Sleeves | Cuff ends where wrist meets hand |
| Length | Covers your seat so it stays tucked |
| Buttons | Sewn firmly, ideally with a spare |
| Stitching | Small, even stitches; seams lie flat |
Which fabric should I choose?
- Poplin (broadcloth): smooth, light and crisp; the formal choice under suits.
- Twill: diagonal weave, slightly heavier, creases less, a little sheen.
- Oxford cloth: textured, casual, durable. See oxford shirts.
- Pinpoint oxford: between poplin and oxford, smart and soft.
- Linen: coolest, most casual. See linen shirts for men.
Hold the fabric up to light. If you can see your hand clearly through it, it'll look see-through when worn.
Which collar?
A spread collar suits most faces and ties and looks modern. A point collar is narrower and classic. A button-down is casual, best without a tie. For your first white shirt to wear with suits, choose a semi-spread collar.
How should it fit?
Two fingers should fit inside the buttoned collar, the shoulder seam should sit on your shoulder bone and the body should follow your shape with a little room. See the 5 shirts every man needs for the fit checklist.
How do I keep it white?
- Wash whites separately at 40°C.
- Treat collars and underarms before washing; sweat and deodorant cause yellowing.
- Avoid chlorine bleach on cotton too often; it can yellow fabric over time. Oxygen-based whiteners are gentler.
- Dry in the shade or briefly in sun; long direct sun can yellow fibres.
- Iron while slightly damp.
How many white shirts should I own?
At least two. If you wear one weekly for work and another for events, three.
Questions
Should I wear a vest under it?
A thin, close-fitting tee or vest absorbs sweat and protects the shirt in Accra's heat. Choose a V-neck or skin-tone vest so it doesn't show at the collar.
Tucked or untucked?
Tucked, almost always. See tucked or untucked.
What suits go with a white shirt?
All of them. See the 5 types of suits every man needs.